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Foodie Find: Mount Haven Restaurant

Discover fine dining without the formality, in a quiet corner of Marazion

You think you know a place! We go to Marazion all the time (there’s a windsurfer in the family). But if I’m honest, we rarely make it past Jordan’s café in the station car park.

Turns out, it’s worth driving a little further through the village and up the hill the other side for a special Cornish dining experience.

Here, a boutique hotel, complete with a restaurant you need to know about, is tucked away among some of the town’s more salubrious residences. And it has a view of Mount’s Bay and St Michael’s Mount that I’ve decided I like even better than the view from the other side of town.

From the balconies at Mount Haven, you get a rare peek at the Mount gardens – a gorgeous bit of green in the middle of the blue — and as a bonus, there’s not a crowd of other visitors clambering to get a good snap on their phones. Summer especially can be full-on in Marazion but hey, I’ve found you the perfect place to retreat to!

Hotel restaurant’s can be soulless but this one is stylish and intimate, with an elegant seasonal menu to match. There are full-length windows to make the most of the view and a terrace for warmer days.

Spread over two floors, the upstairs has more of a relaxed, bar feel, whereas downstairs (soon to be treated to a glam makeover) is a little more formal. And the service is excellent without being over-the-top attentive.

Mount Haven restaurant, Marazion, chef Ross Sloan

Head Chef, Ross Sloan describes the food as ‘modern British, inspired by nature’ and for me, the highlights of his menu were the fresh local fish dishes and inventive veggie options. He is former Head Chef at renowned Porthleven restaurant, Kota and the Halzephron Inn in Cornwall, where he won Dining Pub of the Year twice.

Ross joined Mount Haven about a year ago and aims to make it even more of a sought-after a dining destination, adding tasting menu evenings and special one-off events in the near future. Watch this space!

Mount Haven restaurant, Marazion, vegetarian dish

We went for the Squash gnocchi with rainbow carrots, fresh nettle cheese and hazelnuts and Skate with mussel fritters, celeriac, dulse seaweed, crispy potato and sea vegetables.

Fish and Chips are also available if you have hankering that won’t be ignored but they are served up with seaweed tartare, for a sophisticated spin.

Mount Haven restaurant, Marazion, skate crispy potatoes

Despite what looks like incredibly clever cooking, there’s nothing too fussy about the flavours and both dishes taste really fresh and delicious. Plus, they are so beautifully presented that tucking in almost feels like a travesty.

The puddings are even prettier. In fact, my soda bread ice cream, roasted pear, milk jam, chocolate granola, rum jelly and whey is a veritable masterpiece!

Mount Haven restaurant, Marazion, lemon berry dessert

If you fancy making a night of it, the comfortable rooms at Mount Haven are refreshingly un-nautical for a seaside stay, with chic neutral tones and an eclectic mix of prints. The hotel is going through a period of refurbishment, so if you want one of the rooms with a swanky new bathroom, be sure to ask.

Mount Haven hotel, Marazion, double room

 

MUDDY VERDICT

GOOD FOR:

A real treat, book a table at Mount Haven restaurant for a special girlie lunch, intimate celebration or dinner for two.

NOT FOR:

Small kids or a rowdy crowd. Children are officially welcome in the hotel (there’s one family suite) but I wouldn’t bring mine. It feels like a grown-up place to savour undisturbed.

££: Not bad at all! The fanciest à la carte options are about £20 but you can also grab a light lunch for £10.

Mount Haven Hotel, Turnpike Road, Marazion, Nr Penzance, Cornwall, TR17 0DQ. 01736 719937. 

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The Urban Guide to the Countryside - Cornwall