7 Cornish coastal walks we love
More than 400 of the 630 miles of the South-West Coast Path are in Cornwall, starting just above Bude and ending right up back round at the Rame Head just before Plymouth. There are entire books devoted to the subject of the path so here are some of just some of our favourite sections.
The sun is shining and the sea air and views on the coast path are just right for getting moving to improve our mental health. May is National Walking Month and this week is Mental Health Awareness Week. The South West Coast Path has some organised walks you can join, or, just grab your boots, pack some snacks, and hit up on our favourite walks below.
BUDE TO PADSTOW
Boscastle to Tintagel, 4.6 miles (7.4km) Moderate / Tintagel to Port Isaac 9.1 miles (14.7km) Severe
Walk the route: If you walk the whole path in Cornwall you’ll start with a rewarding but extremely difficult section of the path where the views are magnificent, the geology fascinating and as you come into Boscastle you’ll walk along the cliff from Thomas Hardy’s Beeny Cliff. For an easier option, start at Boscastle and take the more manageable but still very dramatic section onto Tintagel. Don’t worry, add the next section to Port Isaac and you’re back to severe again, such are the ups and downs of the path, if you feel you might be missing out.
Starting at the harbour at Boscastle you’ll pass Bronze Age burial grounds, and the Rocky Valley (a lovely walk in itself, up to the waterfall at St Nectan’s Glen) and then across the top of the beach at Bossiney (a nice place for a swim at low tide).
Next is Tintagel, with the famous castle, and a famously beautiful stretch of coastline taking you on past Trebarwith and then a series of exceedingly steep valleys and back up again – by the time you get to Port Gaverne that will 7 valleys (those with vertigo might wish to skip ahead to Port Isaac).
Eat, stay, play: At Boscastle, famous not just for the great flood of 2004, but also because it is a lovely little village where there are plenty of options for eating and drinking. Just outside Boscastle on the path down is Muddy Award winning Boscastle Farm Shop, and in the harbour itself (above) the café Give us the good stuff is just before the NT tea rooms. The Rocket Store offers a fancier lunch / dinner option, and The Cobweb is always good for live music and convivial atmosphere.
Tintagel of course has the castle as well as a number of hotels, most with more faded glamour, or, pause in land a little at Kudhva. Stay in the treehouse tents or the more robust Danish Cabin which sleeps up to six in bunks. At Trebarwith the Port William Inn is a pub with a good sea view, and when you finally reach Port Gaverne in need of a good meal, the hotel serves a great steak. In summer, Pilchard’s, their more casual small plates place is open right on the beach, and you can pause a while and take a guided kayak or SUP with Cornish Rock Tors.
One last pull up the hill into Port Isaac and there’s plenty of options for a good night’s kip, including the fancy Outlaw’s Guest House – pile back on the calories you just lost with dinner at one of his two restaurants with stars in the village, pick up a pizza, or just head to the Golden Lion on the harbour wall and hope the Fisherman’s Friends are also in town. In the morning, as you set out for the next phase, fuel up for the next stage with a thousand steps with a coffee and pastry from Fee’s on the way down into the harbour.
Port Quin to Padstow, 5.6 miles (9km) Moderate / Easy
Walk the route: This section takes in the famous “Rumps” (Pentire Head) and is a favourite for a lovely day walk. To make the walk shorter parking is also available at Polzeath where you can loop northwards and then along towards Rock.
Look out for seabirds including puffins on the island and dolphins in the water below. It was on this headland that Laurence Binyon wrote his famous poem, For the fallen, in 1914 – you’ll know part of it from Remembrance Day. There’s also the remains of an iron age castle and the old lead mine (work started in 1580). Once in Polzeath, cross the sandy beach and pick up the path again past Daymer Bay to Rock, where if you’re carrying on south on the path, you can catch the ferry (or water taxi) over to Padstow.
Eat, stay, play: Plenty of options to suit all requirements in Polzeath and Rock from campsites through to fancy hotels, so this makes a good stop off. Polzeath Beach House is literally on the path as you pass through New Polzeath, and the Atlantic Kitchen downstairs has a great view (try the gigantic sharing pizzas). Whilst you’re in New Polzeath soothe weary limbs with a hot/cold sauna / sea swim combo at Saunas by the Sea. Surfside on the beach at Polzeath has live music and a rum bar, and Vanilla in the village itself is where its at for ice-cream.
Want to stay longer or base yourself here for more walking? Lovely cottages and rentals can be found at Highcliffe, The Point Holidays and Latitude50, and you can’t visit Polzeath and not have a surf (Georges Surf School and Wavehunters both offer private and group lessons).
Onwards and up out of Polzeath to Trebetherick where just off the path there’s the St Moritiz Hotel (and Cowshed spa) plus indoor / outdoor pools, the Mowhay restaurant and Aspiga should you need to refresh your wardrobe. Or, refreshments from the Daymer Beach café to see you up and over Brea Hill and down into Rock. Right by the ferry you’ll find Four Boys café, small plates for breakfast and lunch, walk-ins only, as well as the Mariner’s pub.
ST IVES TO PENZANCE
St Ives to Zennor, 7 miles (8km) Moderate / Difficult
Walk the route: Leaving behind the tiny streets of St Ives, the walk starts at Porthmeor Beach and heads along spectacular (is there any other kind?) coastline. Subtly different from the path further north, here granite cliffs dominate and the landscape is littered with ancient stones. Unlike further north, this walk is much more deserted with refreshments and accommodation more sparse, so you’ll need to plan ahead. Once you reach Zennor, you can hop on the bus back to St Ives, or continue onto Pendeen and St Just.
Eat, stay, play: Plenty of options in St Ives itself, or pause overnight at Zennor (holiday cottages to rent through Aspects). For those who enjoy a literary connection, D H Lawrence stayed at The Tinner’s Arms pub and a fictionalised version appears in work he produced staying in the village. Pause for a moment to look for the mermaid in the church.
Cape Cornwall to Porthcurno 11.5 miles (18.5km) Moderate / Difficult
Walk the route: This section of the route includes Sennen and then the big one – Land’s End, the most westerly spot in mainland Britain – although just between us, we prefer the more natural parts either side than the bit with the big white post. Still, it is a landmark and if you’ve been walking from John O’Groates, you probably want to see it! Look out for dolphins, basking sharks and on the cliffs, Cornwall’s national bird, the chough. The landscape here is wild and exposed, although, as you turn the corner and start heading back up the coast, the turquoise waters and golden sands of the beaches will have you reaching for your camera.
Eat, stay, play: Cape Cornwall is just outside St Just and at Priest’s Cove there’s a little tidal pool (climb up to the NT carpark where you’ll find a little tea shed – the Little Wonder Café) with real mugs (most of which seem to have a royal theme!). A few more options for bathing / resting en route include Gwynver, just outside Sennen, Nanjizal, Porthgwarra and Porthchapel, although the latter require being fairly sure-footed. (Poldark fan? Porthgwarra is where Ross went skinny dipping). Otherwise wait until you reach Porthcurno, above.
You won’t have walked too far by the time you reach Sennen Cove but it does make a good spot to stay, with holiday cottages bookable via Cornish Secrets. The village has cafés, a pub and a campsite. Once you’ve passed Land’s End, the next chance for cafés is Porthcurno, where you’ll also find the PK Porthcurno museum (the area is famous for telecommunications) and catch some theatre at The Minack, or head up to Treen where you’ll find Farm + Fort, Muddy Best Café finalists, who also do regular pizza nights. Find holiday cottages bookable via Cornish Horizons.
PENZANCE to THE LIZARD
Poldhu to The Lizard Lighthouse 7.5 miles (12km) Moderate
Walk the route: Where Land’s End is the most westerly point of the UK, The Lizard marks the most southerly and it’s here that the path turns pretty sharply and heads back up north-east. Look out over the sea from Lizard Point and just before, and there’s nothing between Cornwall and America. Might explain why the first wireless signals were sent from this stretch of coast (at Poldhu) by Marconi in 1901.
Starting off at Poldhu, this walk actually takes in several of Poldark’s finest beaches (Gunwalloe Church Cove is just further north) and ends just after one of Cornwall’s most famous, Kynance Cove (above). Look out for the famous green serpentine rock here, and the unique geology and quite flat inland heath created by our Bronze Age ancestors.
Eat, stay, play: For such a remote location there are surprisingly not one but two hotels literally en route – Polurrian on the Lizard (above) and Mullion Cove Hotel & Spa, both of which are dog-friendly and have plenty to recommend for overnighters including spa, pool and restaurants. The café at Kynance Cove has a great view, and the Most Southerly Café (Polpeor Café) is good for a pause before you turn and head north. Ann’s Pasties at Lizard are among the best in Cornwall. If you’re staying longer, you can SUP and kayak from Mullion Cove and the golf course at Mullion is also a winner.
FALMOUTH TO PORTLOE
Place House to Portscatho 6.2 miles (10km) Easy
Walk the route: This walk starts as you get off the foot ferry from St Mawes, on the far side of the already quite remote Roseland Peninsular. The walk takes in St Anthony Head, with panoramic views across Carrick Roads and Falmouth Bay (above), and is an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty mostly owned by the National Trust. It also makes a nice circular walk if you’re more inclined. The lighthouse here is famous, in popular culture at least for being immortalised in Fraggle Rock, but it is also pretty important shipping wise as it wards ships off the deadly rocks called The Manacles. The path is lovely and easy and will take you past several beaches, including the lesser famous Towan and up to Portscatho, a rather lovely little harbour town (probably most well known round these parts for its proximity to Porthcurnick beach and the Hidden Hut).
Eat, stay, play: If you’re tempted to stay at the lighthouse, you’re in luck as there is a single holiday cottage here, plus a few former officer’s quarters rented out by the NT. Otherwise there’s fancy hotels in St Mawes (Hotel Tresanton and Idle Rocks) before you get the ferry over, or, beyond Porthscatho is The Rosevine, Driftwood Hotel and The Nare a little further still. There’s a couple of campsites, our favourite being just above Portscatho at Gerrans (Arthur’s Field) from which it is a short walk to The Standard – Simon Stallard’s new-ish pub – and The Hidden Hut beyond. Time your walk right and you could end as Simon fires up the grill for one of his legendary feast nights. If you’re wanting a café en route, just above Towan Beach there’s another nice NT option.
LOOE TO PLYMOUTH
Portwrinkle to Cawsand and Cremyll 13.3 miles (21.4km) Moderate
Walk the route: The very last stretch before catching the ferry back to Plymouth and into Devon. From Portwrinkle the route takes in high cliffs, wide sandy beaches and then Rame Head (above) with glorious views. It reminded me a little of California! Rame Head gives way to the little twin villages of Cawsand and Kingsand, and then the path skirts Mount Edgcumbe Estate, where you can head for the ferry point at Cremyll. Or, in the summer, cut the route short and catch the boat from Cawsand.
Eat, stay, play: No.3 The Old School House makes a lovely water-front stay in Cawsand itself, from which you can access the beach for swimming and kayaking. In the village at Kingsand we liked The Stores, with everything you could possibly want food and drink wise on offer. The Guard House Café is newly opened at Maker Heights just off the path further on, and The Canteen is great for lunch. The Sea Forts is a wild coastal camp with luxury bell tents.