Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall UK

WHAT? WHERE?

Perched on the cliffs in a dramatic location on the Lizard Peninsula looking over Mullion Cove and out to the Atlantic, the 4* Mullion Cove Hotel & Spa offers a breathtaking escape from the everyday.

Mullion Cove Hotel from the air, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall UK

Mullion Cove was built in 1898, as one of three hotels created along this dramatic stretch of coastline by the Great Western Railway, but now, long after the railway closed, the landmark white building still stands, lovingly refurbished into a modern Cornish escape complete with eco spa.

Storm watching was the name of the game when I visited for a winter break, where the hotel made a welcome respite from the dramatic weather, and we stared out into the total darkness over the Atlantic, listening to the waves crashing below and marvelling that the next bit of land was America.

view from the window, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall UK

In the lighter months, the azure sea gets calm and gentle and on sunny summer days creates an unforgettable seascape. Even in winter though, the view from bed in the sea-facing rooms is just mesmerising.

THE VIBE?

Mullion Cove has retained all the charm of the old school hospitality that you might have expected in decades past, delivered in a more modern way. 30 en-suite spacious rooms, many with breathtaking sea views, were recently revamped by award-winning London/Cornwall interior designers, Hart Miller.

There are multiple communal areas and lounges for guests, almost all of which have been recently refurbished in some quite fabulous floral wallpapers, and it balances the line between being formal without any stuffiness well. If you want to dress up for dinner, you very much can, but equally if you arrive with your dog after a day’s walking the coast path with only your walking togs in a rucksack, that is also just fine too.

view from the spa deck Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall UK

SCOFF & QUAFF

For dinner there are two choices – the Atlantic View Restaurant, the two AA Rosettes finer dining option, and next door, the Glenbervie Bar that provides lighter bites and cocktails. Breakfast is also served in the Atlantic View Restaurant which looks out over the spectacular coastal vista.

starter, atlantic view restaurant, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

We ate in the Atlantic View, led by head chef Anthony Theobald, and alongside nicely cooked local seafood and inventive meat dishes the wine list was notable for some stand-out choices and one-off older bottles, collected and cellared by the hotel’s owners.

I very much enjoyed the Confit Pork Belly with mustard mash, and the local cheese board that followed, and the feather-blade steak was also great. Produce is locally-sourced where possible, including the tea and coffee, with meat from rare-breeds, and grass-fed animals as well as free range poultry.

cheeseboard, atlantic view restaurant, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

We then headed back next door to the Glenverbie Bar where my pre-dinner cocktail had involved an unusual black Squid Ink gin, so that Daniel, the GM, could make us an off-menu but very delicious old-fashioned each as a night-cap.

PILLOW TALK

bed and bedroom at Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

Elegant luxurious suites with more fabulous floral wallpaper and well-positioned rooms are the choices in the main hotel building. Our room had dark velvet detailing and moody leather chairs, drawn up to next to the windows framing the wild winter sea, and the room was, as you’d expect from buildings of this age, fabulously large and airy.

sea view from bedroom at Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

Should you prefer a self-catering apartment, the fish cellars down on the Cove itself have been converted into four luxury self catering apartments all with unrivalled sea views and the same level of high service which has been associated with the Mullion Cove Hotel since 1898.

bedroom at Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

SPA

The cliff-top sea view eco-spa takes inspiration from the local surroundings using the local granite, copper, bronze and tin and includes an outdoor swimming pool lined with chic white loungers (closed for the winter, so I can’t report there) but it looked beautiful and would be super-chic in the summer sun, and a cliff-top wood-fired hot tub (also closed due to high winds).

eco-spa, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

Inside, there is a hydro-pool and steam room and sauna, all of which were surrounded by hand-carved Serpentine rock (the distinctive local green-ish rock found on the beaches surrounding the hotel) and lighting by Cornish-based lighting designer, Tom Raffield, to complete the outside/inside natural feel.

Swimming pool outside at Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

I was booked in for the Hands on Heart treatment, which took place listening to the crashing waves of Mullion Harbour. Well, hands on heart, it was one of the most relaxing treatments I’ve had in a long time. I also liked the sound of the walking packages, where visitors who walk the coast path can book a dedicated lower leg and foot treatment. The treatment rooms are cosy and comfortable and the treatments feature Made for Life organic Cornish products.

eco-spa indoor pool, Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall UK

KID-FRIENDLY?

All ages are welcome to Mullion Cove Hotel & Spa, including families with children although it is arguably more suitable for those with older children as there is no play equipment, children’s clubs or facilities for babies and toddlers and children under 12 are not allowed to dine in the Atlantic View Restaurant during the evening. That said, cots, blackout blinds and assistance with bottle warming and sterilising of baby equipment is possible, and family dining (including a children’s menu) is offered in the Glenbervie bar from midday until 9pm.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Yes! Dogs are actively welcomed, and there is no extra charge for dogs in selected bedrooms during low season, rising to £10 per night supplement for other times of the year. Visiting dogs receive a welcome pack and there is water, biscuits and a dedicated dog-friendly lounge too.

ACCESSIBILITY

There are 30 accessible bedrooms over three floors and some bedrooms are suitable for wheelchair access. The ground floor is accessible, as are the restaurants, and there is disabled parking.

OUT AND ABOUT

Mullion Cove, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall, UK

The Lizard Peninsula is still largely one of Cornwall’s hidden gems, and has therefore to an extent escaped being overrun by tourists. Perhaps because it is just a couple of miles away from the most southerly tip of the UK, so it is a little off the beaten track, but this does mean that there are plenty of fantastic coastal walks here, along with little coves to climb down into for a swim or sunbathe when the sun is out – like Poldhu (below) and Gunwalloe Church Cove (you might recognise it if you’re a Poldark fan).

The National Trust Mullion Harbour is just down the road and the lovely villages of Coverack, Cadgwith, Constantine and foodie-harbour Porthleven are within easy distance. SUP and kayaking can be organised in the summer months and Mullion Golf Club has a good reputation. The more famous and therefore more busy Kynance Cove, below, is also walking distance away down the coast path.

It is also pretty awesome looking out into the Atlantic and knowing the next place you’d find land is in America – the star gazing is great here.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: If you’re looking for a themed break in Cornwall, from Watercolour Weekends to musical breaks, Mullion Cove Hotel is just the ticket. The eco-spa is also an undiscovered gem for spa lovers, and walkers will love this as a place to base themselves from.

Not for: The Lizard is pretty remote so not for anyone who prefers the bustle of a town, and if you’re after a dedicated family holiday with plenty to do for the kids, you might prefer somewhere with slightly more kid-focused energy.

The damage: From £104 for a one-night stay based on two people sharing.

Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion Cove, Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall, TR12 7EP

Review: Mullion Cove Hotel, Mullion, Lizard, Cornwall

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