WHAT? WHERE?

A handsome period building with a soothing sage exterior, the Pier House is a St Austell Brewery pub with rooms smack bang on the front of Charlestown’s historic Georgian harbour on Cornwall’s south coast. Recently re-opened after a transformational refurbishment and retaining many of the original features, the Pier House is a cosy pub that welcomes locals and visitors, for a drink, or a meal, or for a full on stay.

Charlestown - aerial - credit Charlestown Harbour

Local landowner Charles Rashleigh built the working harbour at Charlestown in the late 1700s as a port to export first copper, and then China Clay, as well as to bring coal in. By 1800, the inner locked basin had been completed along with most of the period houses round the harbour, including the hotel that is now the Pier House. Charlestown is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the grade II listed harbour’s primary occupation is now as a film set, with a number of boats usually in the inner basin (at the time of our visit, the basin gates had been damaged in a storm and were under repair, so only one boat was in situ). If you avidly binged Poldark (just us?) then you’ll recognise the harbour, and with the second series of Beyond Paradise being filmed there last month too, there’s a good chance you’ll run into a film crew or visiting celebrity.

THE VIBE?

Pier House Charlestown Cornwall interior

Laid back and friendly, the Pier House is one of those sprawling pubs that is lots of things at once. For day time pints you’ll want the sea-facing inside bar, and there’s also a sun trap outdoor seating area, with views straight out over the harbour, for soaking up Cornwall’s sunshine. Coming into their own later in the evening, and let’s be honest, all day in the winter, are the sofas by the fire, where the board games are stacked up invitingly. Drinks are all the St Austell Brewery favourites – Tribute, Proper Job, Korev, and also some Harbour options too. And while you can eat in the bar, there is also a separate restaurant area.

exterior view Pierhouse Charlestown Cornwall

For a small town, Charlestown has a lot going on, and consequently attracts a lot of visitors – you’ll be as likely to be sat next to those that have come from miles away to see where Poldark was filmed, as you might be to the locals that live and work in the community.

SCOFF & QUAFF

restaurant Pierhouse Charlestown Cornwall

The menu champions fresh local produce and the upper restaurant space is a dramatic space dominated by the cloud mural on the far wall, and a mix of dark wood pub style furniture, cosy booths and marble tables with banquette seating.

On offer the day we visited was both rabbit and venison, as well as more traditional pub fare including fillet steak and beef pie – which is what we went for as the rabbit and venison were already sold out – with plenty of starters for sharing and to suit vegetarians. Everything we ate was tasty and well prepared, and in decent pub size portions too – no fine dining or micro herbs here. St Austell are brewing specialists, and I thought my beer with my starter was better than the wine I had with my steak, although there were options on the list from Camel Valley if you wanted to stay local.

Puddings were classic comfort food with a Cornish twist – my saffron bun bread and butter pudding with ‘thunder and lightning’ (that’s clotted cream with golden syrup, don’t you know) was straight out of a Cornish cookery book, and very delicious. I could have eaten two!

Food is sourced locally, and shown on the map on the menu. Burger buns are by Baker Toms, meat from Redruth, ice cream from Treleavens in Lanivet, and so on.

food on the table at Pier House Charlestown Cornwall

For those that choose to stay the night, breakfast is also served in the restaurant, and is at a work friendly time during the week, meaning it also makes a convenient place to stay if you’re working locally. I opted for pancakes and we also tried the full Cornish – it’s not so stand out gourmet that you’d be crazy not to travel for it, but that didn’t mean it wasn’t good. Cereals, pastries, muffins and toast were available buffet style, with the hot menu option there too.

PILLOW TALK

Watch the waves roll in from the comfort of your bed when you stay the night in one of the pub’s stylish, newly refurbished bedrooms. Some have sea views, and all have been beautifully decorated during the recent renovations. All have en-suite bathrooms, with rainforest showers. Lots of mod cons – like TVs set up to mirror from your phone, so you can easily watch your own Netflix account – as well as Elemis toiletries, Nespresso machines, and a stocked minibar with complimentary Korev lagers. Plus you barely need pack – on hand are maps, guide books, a bag and even a pair of branded waterproof warm robe / jackets to wear outside if you’ve forgotten your own (or fancy a morning swim in the harbour or beach) that can be borrowed from each room.

OUT & ABOUT

Charlestown is beautifully preserved, from the harbour outside the window to the pretty pastel fishermen’s cottages, with a range of local bars, eateries and independent shops to explore, as well as the charming Shipwreck Museum. Catch it while you can, for it is up for sale, and this coming Christmas may well be the last chance to walk the old tunnels and see the artefacts including items from the Titanic. In St Austell itself is the Victorian buildings that still house the St Austell Brewery – head over to the extensive shop, Hick’s Bar, and sign up for a fascinating tour behind-the-scenes at the brewery where you can learn more about beer generally, the St Austell beers specifically, and even try some of them too.

For a harbour town, Charlestown is pretty accessible by road, which makes it easy to use as a base for wider exploration of the south Cornwall coast. Just north is Carlyon Bay (above), which in summer has water sports and eateries at the lovely beach, as well as a good golf course. To the south is the lovely beach at Duporth and Porthpean (again good for water sports and swimming, and you can also book kids in for the day at Camp Cornwall in the school holidays) with plenty of coast to explore on foot or by kayak or paddleboard. Also nearby is The Lost Gardens of Heligan, the more traditional fishing harbour at Mevagissey and just in land, The Eden Project.

Lost Gardens of Heligan Mud Maid Pentewan Cornwall UK

ACCESSIBILITY

The bar and lower bar and dining areas are accessible, accessed via the outside terrace. There is one room that is suitable for people with reduced mobility with plenty of space (accessible from a steep ramp outside the building so not wheelchair friendly).

DOG-FRIENDLY

The Pier House is dog-friendly – some of the 23 rooms can have dogs overnight, and dogs are allowed in the bar area / lower dining area at the bar.

bathroom at Pier House Charlestown Cornwall

KID FRIENDLY

Cots and fold-down beds can be accommodated in a select number of rooms and the usual pub rules apply downstairs, where there are highchairs and so on.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

A lovely little night away – being right at the end of the harbour, once the pub goers have all left silence falls over the harbour and all you’re left with is the sound of the waves against the walls. The building was one of the first when Rashleigh built the town and you can imagine generations of drinkers and visitors propping up the bar.

Good for: Just right for a casual night off with a friend or partner – walk the coast, refresh and refuel with a pint and a meal. Throw in a good pudding, a board game, and you’ll have a solid nights sleep with the sound of the water against the harbour walls lulling you. Also fun for a meal out with mates, or even a date would work too. Time your visit right, and you could be mixing with and watching film crews work from the excellent terrace vantage point.

Not for: Food is unpretentious and while good, it’s not fancy, so if you’re more of a tasting menu type diner, you’ll find other options locally suit more. This is a pub with rooms rather than a smart hotel too, so there’s no spa or pool, but the rooms are much more well equipped than you might expect.

The damage: Prices from £135 B&B based on two sharing. Book before 1 January to receive 50% off stays between Sunday and Thursday using the code NEWYEAR.

Pier House, Charlestown, St Austell, Cornwall, PL25 3NJ

pierhousehotel.com

Review: Pier House, Charlestown, Cornwall

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